Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Rwanda, in the heart of Africa

I pitch my tent in the track trailer, made dinner and slept. I was able to work up early in the next day after breakfast I left the town. The morning view of sky cover with morning mist, dump air and lush green on the rolling hills over and over to the four side horizons was worm welcome to the very heart of Africa I cycled in the road which goes along side Kagera National Park. Several tourist vehicles pass taking people who traveled from different angle of the world. Venture to this remote country to experience the magnificent animals’ n their native environment. I just though most of them perhaps all ready watch film such “Gorillas In The Mist” about late Dian Fossey’s pioneering work. Here it manifest itself that watching these fascinating creatures on the television is exciting enough but nothing in comparison to the thrill of visiting them firsthand. In the flat terrain with gently hills, the landscape characterized mountains hence the name “The County of a Thousand Hills”, valleys, marshes, several rivers and cultivated fields; conclude “The country of Perpetual Spring”. In the town people were rushing to their work places in the farms people were busy as well. There were lot of self-contained compounds and work a sign of life quality.

I stopped at Gabiro town after 34kms. I chart with locals as I was drinking my cold drink. The conversations start with curious young but lost for short give the chance for couple farmer. I narrated m stories to Hutu farmers while they were patiently listen. I turned to them with my questions about genocide and current status. They were nearly turned me down clamed that my questions were to political so I better find a politician, but kept on with conversation after convinced them I am just what to learn and there were nothing else on my intention. I sensed that perhaps they were felt guilt. Since I am interested with cause these were potential people to portray very history of this densely populated small country.
So there we emerged deep cause one of the century’s great tragedies, in a small country (26,336km square) with 8 million people (before genocide) ranked early1994, most densely populated state. The story had to part completely different, there are some account said that, the Tutsi arrived as northerners Nilotic conquers perhaps early 15th century. While others believe that the two groups have always been defined by class or castle rather than by ethnicity. This myth like account kept on say that the godlike ruler Kigwa fashioned a test to choose his successor. He gave each of his sons a bowl of milk to guard during the night. His son Gatwa drank the milk, Yahutu slept and spilled the milk. Only Gatusi guarded it well. This justifies Rwanda’s social order, in which the Twa (pygmies) were the outcasts, the Hutu servants, and Tutsi aristocrats. Historically, Hutu serf herded cattle and performed various other services for their Tutsi “protectors”. At the top of the hierarchy.

I resume my cycling, my mind occupied with what I wasn’t conscious want to think about. The country side was extraordinary beauty but failed to turn mind. Lastly I came up with clue Tutsi has high chance of being Nilots but due to the cause and conditions which made them to intermarriage result even speak one language “Kinyarwanda”. Looked the same physically, notwithstanding the stereotyped of the Tutsi being exceptionally tall, It is almost impossible for outside to differentiate between the two groups. I kept on convince myself that as the process of intermingle this group was took the place as any where in the world the outside arrived with their interest. Though that the colonialists’ ideal such as encouraging predominant Hutu (86%) to grow cashcrops especial coffee, and other ideal relate with divide and rule wide the distinction between these two groups which since then was under one rule “Mwami”. These very kind of things with ever-increase pressure of people and herds, greed and authoritarianism characterized countries political hence civil war and genocide.
After won my mind battle I was able to continue energetically cycling and absorbed the beauty of these Hart Of Africa which despite of the harsh past story the nature still manifest its beauty. There were several courage words and waves from the people in the farms, shops, vehicles, etc. These were the signs of welcomed and friendly people. Some other youth joined me for few kilometers showed me how good they are while in French/Kiswahili tell me how they were proud to see black man on bicycle tour.

Thursday, December 3, 2009

TANZANIA NORTHERN HIGH LANDS TO LAKE ZONE

I left Arusha 15th Nov planned to undertake the second pedal of cycling around Africa. After successful first pedal in southern Africa, I got back in Arusha gather energy and try to raise fund for the second part. This part has been challenge enough. Finally I decide to set with little fund I managed to raise from friends who participated in my representation prepared by CRC (Conservation Resource Centre). The lecture/talking about my trip wasn’t real my ideal although I could do if asked. That is what happened it was in the lunch break with CRC members and office manager at the office, the office manager Miss Dassa Nkini suggested that I should present my bicycle trip. This cleave woman to whom I owe her respect said that “You done something which I think it is unusual in our community so it is good ideal to share your experience with others. Think this together with your biography may act as a catalyst to influence and encourage others to find their potential.” From her ideal is where I got an insight of write this book despite the fact that there are so many adventure books and thousands describe Africa. I am personally believe that there is no excess knowledge so no matter how many books in the shelves describe our mother continent non can optimize another.
About 25 people turn up in the small office room all of them support me when I announce that I am leaving for second pedal. In particular I thank Howard and Benoit for their immeasurable fast support. The plan was to cycle until when I see financial green light. In this part budget has to hike up due to Ethiopia visa (100US$), Sudan visa (100US$), Egypt visa (100US$), food and camping for one month (200 US$). The fund I have up to the moment can sustain me for East Africa counters.


I left Arusha with Stive Mtui and Jacob who voluntary decide to buy food supply which can support us for 600km. The retired Danish professionally cyclist, Bent who cycled across Africa in 2008 with Tour D’ Afrique accompany us for 85km (one day). Thank you Bent for such support and courage. We left Arusha clock tower 10:30am in the group of nine cyclists. We cycled towards west side of town through main road to Tanzania popular tourists destinations such Ngorongoro crater, Serengeti National Park, et cetera. We stopped at Meserani Snake Park for cold drink; other friends turn back from here. After half an hour break we continue in the group of for people. The cycling was enthusiastic as every body seems to enjoy it with occasional chatting and have enough energy except for me when I failed to keep up with the group pace in the rolling hills near Makuyuni junction, This was due to my heavy loaded bicycle compare to others. We arrived at Makuyuni a dry flat town but this time was patched with green cause of the recent rain. We camp at the local guest house compound for free. We had offer from Bent who bought us dinner while a friend who I met when I was cycled to central Tanzania December 2008 bought us drinks.

Crossing Rift Valley, Ngorongoro highlands and Serengeti plains.
In the following morning we left Makuyuni 7:30am, Bent cycled back to Arusha town while three of us embarked the flat terrains of Great Rift Valley floor, cycled towards north east. In the cool morning with gentile breeze from Ngorongoro highland, beautiful birds’ calls, lush green, long acacia and shrubs landscape stretch up to the horizon of wall of Greet Rift Valley. This flat terrains stretch in both side of the road; In left side of the road the depression caused alkaline Lake Manyara while far north between volcanic peaks (3000m)lie another alkaline Lake Natron.
Along side the road we could see poor health maasai cattle cause of recently last long drought which cut off significant numbers of maasai livestock. The scatted Maasai huts, Maasai elders wore visible red shuka stand out side one long stick in one hand other short one merely watching us while young, enthusiastic, wave towards us and shout Mzungu! Mzungu! All these together made 30km through flat terrain become short. After one hour and half of riding we stopped at small but lively, Mto Wambu town (mosquito Creek). Here we rueful our bottle and have banana snacks before embarking on the Great Rift Valley escarpment 7km step. Even after finishing escarpment the cycling was still challenge as we cycled towards Ngorongoro highlands. The sun which rises gravely hot hence too much sweating, made us took a nap at lunch break before Karatu town. We resume our cycling which was characterized with long up hill cycling till Lodware gate, Ngorongoro entrance. We reached at the gate which situated within 1800-2000m.a.s.l at 08pm. We camped at village leader compound just outside the Ngorongoro entrance.

We work up 5:00am in the next day, had cup of coffee and mixed grains porridge. We dismantle our tent and parked our belongs within 5minutis as one of the range we met last night called me said there is a track crossing both reserve Serengeti and Ngorongoro. Last night he said it is impossible for us to cross two overlapping conserved areas with our bicycle. I didn’t agree with this view point since we were locals and in fact inside the reserve there are walking safaris as well as ordinary folk’s homes. It was rather time wasting to discuses this with narrow minded Ranger who couldn’t even let us met senior conservator because he strongly believe he will gave the same answer. The track drive demand 35,000Tsh for each. We failed to pay such high sum and let him go. After long wait the empty tourist land cruse arrive. The drive said he is going to receive client at Lobo northern part of Serengeti National Park. He demands 15,000Tsh per each up to Seronera. I had to owe Jacob as I had no cash in that moment. In Naabi hill gate, the entrance to Serengeti National Park. Rangers on duty refused to let us dropped at Seronera as it was still inside of the park. The drive demand 5,000Tsh addition to take us out of the park in Ikoma gate.
The treatment we received from these trained servants for both protection and management of remain natural areas was rather hash. They merely consider these places as sacred place for you who do not have money. I realized that as it was Ice ages this is money $ ages. In deep down in the mind there is still skin color arrogance but I guess for any poor cyclist my face the same challenge.
We arrived Ikoma gate 05pm from here we parked our bicycle again and cycled through mad road with worn from rage on due to watch out wild animals especial elephants and lions. I wonder what was the hell to cross that merely potion of land with car while we was still have to cycle in such risk areas. We pushed our bicycle after failed to cycle in the black cotton soil sticking like glue made impossible for the tire to rotate. We arrived at Ikoma village one hour late. We overnight at policeman house. We left the village next morning cycled through Ikorongo and Gurumeti game reserves a part of Serengeti ecosystem where wild animals move freely since there is no physical boundary. We had to stop several times observing wild animals such as Impala rums, zebras, buffaloes, topi herds, giraffes and several birds. About 15minuts cycling from reserves headquarter we found large herds of elephants feeding cross the main track. We waited for almost 2hrs on different wind direction avoiding to be detected with these huge creatures on the earth surface poor in sight but keen on smell and marvelous on sounds. Late we took the risk when small track was driving across. The fun moment was when other elephant cross road the distance of 50 miters I was nearly to hold breaks but subconsciously I kept on pedaling which made the elephant run as well. Somewhere in the road we find the fresh lion’s foot prints. As we was finished the reserves we met solitary buffalo’s males. They were not pleased with our intervention so charged and try to chase us without success. We stopped bit after reserves at 01pm for lunch. From there we cycled for 3hrs with rain. We stopped at Mgeta village and overnight in police house by surrender our IDs. We pass the evening with police officers who narrated the challenge of their work in this remote area with little civilization. The local, Kuria people are known for their ruddness.


In the next morning we left Mgeta village and cycled through rolling hills with the peak of (1784m) Chamliko. We stopped at Ikizu junction, here I was amazed after seen the vehicles selling the remaining fish after being chopped the entire meet. Locals told me these remains are from fish industry at Musoma in the shore of Lake Victoria where they process fish for export. We cycled to Butiama village where the fist president of Tanzania was born. We refused to camp on the museum compound which s on the 24 hours solder guards. We cycled down to main road from Musoma –Kenya, camped out side guest house compound after fist camp in side and told to move outside if we can’t pay. In fact there was nothing to pay for, my tent was better than rooms.

In the next day we cycled for 30km and reach Bunda town. We left Bunda and cycled for another 60km and stopped at Bumbala village. Here we made a late superghetten lunch. We ate in the middle of village crowd who come to see what they claim to be magic. They don’t what is the gas stove nether supergatte which the call worms. There were other widespread “ Once I went to town I saw people eat those worms while here is a food of chickens”, while children told us what was their favorites food rice ranck number one. Unfortunately, we were too hungry so there were nothing to share with audiences. I was one to announce the ideal to sleep on this interesting village. One of the spectator invite us to camp on his back yard. We spent evening on the Lake Victoria where we had shower and long chart with fisherman and herders who brought their huge horns ankole cattle to drink water.
In the next morning I work up early when this part of world was still calm in the middle of transformation between dark and light. The full moon which dominated the dark was slowly swallowed with the bright golden violet color from far East. Birds such as Robin chats, sparrows, doves, hornbill, etc were enthusiastic celebrate this ritual. I too, absorbed with the rhythm and surrounding gases, I found in myself celebrating this short leaved world. As I was standing in the middle of the road with a cup of coffee, I turn back to the normal world when I was interrupted with group of the people who I saw from far just only images in the line. When they reach closed we was wonder after each, I observed them every body from young to adults carried hoe in the shoulder and water in the hand. It was time to go to the farms, about hour late almost the entire village was deserted except the house we camp who said they were Baptist so they do not work on Saturday. We cycled for 80km alongside the lake shore, had a break at the village where we found people made Dhow and boats. It was amazing discovery to see how they skillful band particular timber until to form certain form. The thing I grasps from these people is their patience accumulated for long time. We arrive at ferry to Ukerewe Island in the late afternoon, made our lunch of rice and boiled ever cheep fish on the shower as we waited for ferry.
We cross the lake with ferry which took half an hour to reach the largest Island in the Lake Victoria, Ukerewe Island. We cycled for 15km to Nansio town and sort free camped at Monarch beach hotel.
We pitch our tents on the sand beach, made dinner and slept as we was real exhausted. I the morning I was the first to emerge out of the tent as usually. I was stoked with the stunning beauty in front of my eyes; it was a breath taking scene. The golden ball emerged from horizon it bright color shines all the sky while the fresh water lake reflects it. As the low of nature birds were there communicate with each other to welcome the new day. The cup of coffee, cool breeze from lake, rhythm of lave waves birds’ calls and wind brought unforgettable sentient. My heart was thrill with joy while impulses wish to stop this fast moving transformation. The full light emerge Jesus! The moving object I saw previous on the lake and thought was mangrove were people came for early shower and the place we camp was the place for woman, man were about 500 miters further on the shore. It was the same time when human started to praise high power by calling; Allah Akhbar! Allah Akhibar! (Allah is great! Lord is great!) For the entire days we stayed there we I was worry that we threaten the private of those woman come to have shower in the morning and evening.
We had offer from fisherman to take us to the near island but we was obliged to pedal as well he just help with navigation. Lake waves were so strong made me felt like we water will get into the boat then I will die since I can’t swim in such deep water. After came back from boat ride we left the camp and cycled towards north-east of the island. We passed at Bukindo the castle like house, the home of great chief of Wa-Kerewe. Wa-kerewe, the predominant ethnic on this island who their language is evidence that they are from west off shore Bukoba, Haya people. These group of south Uganda and north west of Tanzania as you move further west to Rwanda and Congo share muchin common. One of the grinding machine we found at Bukindo said it was present from Buganda King to Wa-kerewe chief. The island is characterized by rolling hills and rocks outcrop with fertile land together with fishing attract high number of immigrant from mainland. In the north shore we left our bicycle on the certain house and visit the tomb of Wa-krewe chief on the rock. In our way back we were invited to dinner with family of young couple (27 years old) with five children goes like steers. This was amazing thing in this island where it is just ease to find young couples with 6 to 9 children. After corn mixed with cassava Ugali and big fish fresh from the lake we left cycled to west shore. We visited Andebezyo rock caves here there are two rocks named Aluego and Andebezyo. Aluego or Luego means two overhanging roacks used by local to dried cassava floor away from said extinct wild animals. Andebezyo was ladle used to climb on the top of the rocks.
Despite the fact that the island now is a home of several other immigrant ethnics such neighbor Wa-Sukuma from main land, Wa-Gita, Wa-Jaluo, Wa-Haya, et cetera the culture and customs which bound these people together still exist. Almost 90% of inhabitants are substance farmer which young engaged on the fishing industry. People had lot of relaxing/slack time as fishing is early morning rare night and late evening same to farm works which tend to be morning than evening.
We spent three nights in the island and left to Mwanza town in the mainland by boat which took 3hrs. In Mwanza town “Rock city” we had accommodation in Jacob’s uncle guest house. I left the group in Mwanza town after three days of bicycle repair.
I cycled for two days to reach Nkome, Rubondo National Park entrance. The park fees were affordable but I failed to enter in the park after because of high price of boat to the island. I camped at the base compound despite the fact that management refused me to camp there if I can’t pay 20US$ per night without any important services. The range on duty Joctan who become a friend, he told me is better for him to risk his job for let me camp there instead of let me go. He add that he don’t see any point on why shouldn’t camp there. I have a big dinner of rice and huge fish and breakfast of cooked banana and fish soup. It was amazing kindness.

I crossed the lake with local boat where I had lift. The boat took 5hrs to reach Mganza village via several small islands. In the next day I left Muganza and cycled to Muleba through Biharamulo game reserve. The cycling was deadly challenge. After 94km I reached Muleba town and went to the police station asked if I can camp in the compound the gentleman who was main speaker seemed that he was high rank office allow me to camp there. I was busy pitch my tent made coffee and dinner I explained and showed how I survived to the curious policeman and women as well. Around 09:30pm as I was having my dinner other two police man one in the uniform and other just dress casual come to me and bombed with couples of nonsense questions. They seem to be drunken. The one without uniform told me to remove my tent and find somewhere else to camp. He said he is the commanding office and add that the one who let me camp there he is not familiar with laws, regulations and rules. I did so cycled for 10minuts and camp at the filling station where I found a young man. I just told him I want to camp in the corner, he sad no problem. He insured me that my bicycle was in safe since there was guard.

I left the town in the next morning, cycled for 56km. I reached Bukoba town at 01:30pm. I camped at the Lake view hotel where I pay 2000 Tshs about $2. I decide to have one day of rest. I met a family of my friend from Arusha, visited Bukoba museum which is predominated by Dickson Personii photos of wild life found around Bukoba. Cycled in the town outstreckt which ischaracterized with rock give an amazing aerial view of old town on the shore of Lake Victoria.
I set off from Bukoba town after two days rest, I cycled towards west. After finished up hills near Bukoba town the large distance up to Kyaka town was relative flat. I overnight at Kyaka township, it’s lay about 50kms from Bukoba town. The town sprawling both side of Kagera River. Here there are remain ruins for resistance the church built on the top of the rock hill, Kagera Bridge, living houses, etc all of them have been bombed by Idd Amin. Amin sized the area of about 60kms from where there is border post between Tanzania and Uganda and claimed to be part of Uganda. This caused 1976-79 “kagera war” between Tanzania and Uganda. Tanzania successes to fought Amin and over through him from the presidency then he sorts exile in Arabs countries.
I left the town next day, cycling towards south-west through flat terrain forest. I stopped in the mid day after 60kms. As I was having lunch of bread sandwich came the track which stopped few miters from where I was sating. The track drive told me that forest wasn’t safe. He said it was possibly to come across with unfriendly people. He gave me lift up to Kizuguru town in Rwanda. We arrived in the town 07:10pm, the town situated near Kagera National Park.

Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Southern Africa

The Visibility Study in Southern Africa by Bicycle.
The visibility study in southern Africa by bicycle has turned successful with great lesson. The main purpose was to study the tourist’s attraction (which include the respective culture, history, economy and development of the countries) as well as promoting eco-tourism.


Southern Africa region is a diverse region make up of savannah and forest, snow topped mountains and desert, temperature Mediterranean and tropical climate. Southern Africa identity is, however, as much defined by the region’s people but their past and present interactions as by it geographical features. Appreciations of local history divide and unite the region today.

The straggle of the region.

Southern Africa has been the evolving struggle of the region’s indigenous black African majority to free itself of the racial hegemony of white settlers from Europe and their descendants.


The history goes back to 8thC A.D, probably, earlier the region was populated by the black African ethnic groups who spoke the language belonging to Bantu and Khoisan. Archeological study shows that the member of this groups were involved in agriculture and pastoralism as well as hunting and gathering.
During 1400 there was already emerge of strong states/empire such Shona of great Zimbabwe who trade with various locals as well as beyond in Indian Ocean with China.

In sixteenth century saw European immigrants from small numbers of Portuguese followed by the Dutch who established their settlement at the very tip of Africa and expended steadily into the interior. Seized the land of local Khoisan communities. The new society in the Cape was rapidly divided between people of mixed African and Afro-Asian who were imported as slaves.

During the Napolion was British took Cape. In early 19thC British colony abolished slavery and extended limited civil rights to nonwhites at the Cape. This caused white Dutch-descendant Boers or Afrikaner moved into interior. This migration known as Great Trek did not lead the white settlers into empty land. The territory was home to may African groups, who lost their farms and pastures to the superior firepower of early Afrikaner who often corvee labor for their farms and public workers. But few African polities, like Lesotho and Botswana kingdoms were able to perceive their independent.

In the half 19thC white migration and dominance spread through the rest of southern Africa. The discovery of diamonds and gold encourage white exploration and subsequent of occupation father north.

By the 1900 the region was fallen under Cecil Rhode’s South Africa Company which occupied North and South Rhodesia (modern Zambia and Zimbabwe) while traders, missionaries and settlers invalided Nyasa Land (Malawi). Meanwhile, the Germans seized Namibia while Portuguese began to expand inland from their coast enclave (Mozambique).

European colony in southern Africa had significant populations of white settlers, who each case played a predominant political and economical role in their respective territory. Through out the region this white supremacy was festered and maintained through racially discriminatory policies of land alienation, labor regulation and the denial of full civil right to non-white. In South Africa, where the largest and longest settlers white population resided the Afrikaner and English speaking settlers were granted full self-government in 1910 with constitution that left the country’s black majority virtually powerless.

Friday, July 17, 2009

Caprivi Strip


With its scatted huts and sprawling rural population, the Caprivi is closer to the ideal most people have of Africa than any other part of Namibia. It consists of a complex network of perennial rivers, riverine forests and fertile floodplains, an usually flat area where no piece of land fertile floodplains, an usually flat area where no piece of land is more than 47 meters higher than the rest. The region is populated by over 80 000 people, most of whom are substance farmers making their living on the banks of the Zambezi, Kwando, Linyanti and Chobe rivers. In addition to fishing and hunting, they keep cattle and cultivate the land. When Chobe and Zambezi rivers come down in flood, over half of the land can become inundated with water. At this time of the year the Caprivians use their mekoro(dug-out canoes) to traverse the routes usually utilized by cars, trucks and pedestrians.

Seen on the map, the Caprivi appears to be a strange appendage rather than part of the country, extending eastwards as a panhandle into Angola, Zambia, Zimbabwe and Botswana. It is a classic example of how colonial power shaped the boundaries of modern Africa. At the Berlin Conference in 1890, Germany acquired the strip of land to add to the then Germany South West Africa, naming it after the German Chancellor General Count Georg Leo von Caprivi.

The region centre is Katima Mulilo, which has become a busy tourist hub, as it is the gateway to the Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe and the Chobe National Park in Botswana. The proximity of Caprivi to countries with active art and craft industries has had a positive influence on Caprivian artists and craft people, known for the strip of land sculptural beauty and symmetry of their pots and baskets.

Sunday, July 5, 2009

NAMIBIA-R.S.A (Republic of South Africa)




In the Namibia side, 5km from the border Trans Kalahari border post I found West gate rest camp but I could not pay because I had not cash with me.The ATM(Cash) machine around refused to accept my credit card. Around 20:00hrs I got lift which took me to Gobabs town.Gobabs town situated 100km from the Trans Kalahari border post. I reach Gobabs midnight. I went around the town searching for affordable accommodation without success. I decided to cycle towards west to Windhoek which found 200km from Gobabs. It was very pleasant cycling during the nigh. There was less traffic in the road. I found several springbok in the road. In particular occasion I found one springbok which have been hit by vehicle few minutes from when I arrived. The car which hit the springbok was bad destroyed.The dark swallowed by the sun rise slowly. It was stunning to see how the sun shining those dark brown grasses in the dry Savannah of west Namibia when I was still cycling. I could hear from single bird call to anthem interrupted by vehicle which started to increase in numbers one hour later. About 30 km to city center the bicycle bag stand break. In this time it needed welding to rejoined it. I hire tax which took me up to Chameleon backpackers where I overnight and serviced my bicycle. The backpackers become an alternative and affordable accommodation in the touristic towns in this expedition. The price in backpackers it's 5 US $ to 9US$ P.P. camping. Most of them offers self-catering kitchen. I spent two night at Chameleon Backpackers.

I left Windhoek city, cycling towards south. The city situated in the hills. I cycled in the slop down and flat terrain, passed Rehaboth town 85km for Windhoek. I overnight at the farm about 30km from Rehoboth. In the following I kept on cycling towards towards south, passed through extensive grassy plains punctuated with the occasional windmill. At the everning I reached Mariental town. I ride 5km out of town and overnight at somebody front yard. The house owner work up and find me parking my tent.They thought I was repair my bicycle. I full my water bottles here and cycled for the whole day in the semi-desert. Now I become attached with the desert. The desert is relative dry. After couples of kilometers I was able to find water which pulled up by wind machine. In the everning I reached Keetmanshop town. I camped and overnight at Caravan Park (Municipal campsite). I was feeling very tired and the body was out so exhaust. I slept without know what will follow in the next day, but, when I work up and look my map I decide to cycle to Noordoewer. I reached Noordower 23:45hrs. After finished with immigration in Namibia side. I cycled for about 4km crossed Orange/Oranje river to R.S.A, at Vioolsdrif border post. Here there were sad news, when the immigration work told me "unfortunately" you'll have to go back Windhoek to obtain visa in R.S.A(Republic of South Africa) embassy". I felt like my body paralyze for second but not much dispointed, perhaps, because of several challenges and testimony which I went through in this expedition. Good news and bad one for me sound the same.

Now I'm at the small town in southern Namibia, tried to make communication with embassy without any sign of hope. I get used to this Nam land I feel like I want to live here, Ooh no my Namibia visa will expire soon!.

What then? 600km to Cape.

BOTSWANA


After cleared and answered several questions of curious Bastwana immigration workers concerning the cycling expedition. In particularly, one of the them, a traditional African built woman as described by Mc in his books “Tradition Tea Time”, come out of the office and asked more questions as we walk out side. At the end she said "I wish I was you". I was near to bust big laughter I did my best to omit itbecause she was real serious, I fell very sorry for her when I look her over size body ,I wonder which kind of saddle can feat her big buttock.
I cycled out of the border post gate painted Botswana flag color’s this get deep ito my mind now I was cycling in the country I have heard very little negative than positive, rarely heard it in the world leading medial.
Under leadership of Sir Seretse Khama (1966-80),Ketumile Masire (1980-98), Fetus Mogae and today son of Seretse Khama, Botswana has beenthe Cinderella story of postcolonial Africa. In 1966, the country emerged from 80 years of British colonialism as one of 10 poorest county in the world with annually per capital income of $69. Yet over the subsequent years, the nation’s economy has grown at an average annual rate of 11%, one of the world’s highest. At independent the country had no paved road but today infrastructure had been created and social services expanded such growth has translated into improving standards of living for most Botswana citizens. However, the gap between the small but growing middle class( and few truly wealth)and the majority who remain poor is also widening, resulting in social tension.

Botswana’s economic success has come in the context of its unbroken post independence commitment to political pluralism, respect for human rights, and racial and ethnic tolerance. Freedom of speech and association have been upheld, the time I visited the country was in about 9th successful multipart election. Most of Botswana’s people share Setswana as their first language a tongue that is commonly spoken in much of South Africa. There also exist a number of sizable minority communities Kalanga, Herero, Khalagari, Khoisan groups, and others but contemporary ethnic conflict is relatively modest. In nineteenth century, most f Botswana was incorporated into five Tswana states, each centering around a large settlement. These states, which incorporated non Tswana communities, survived through agropastotalism, hunting, and their control of trade route linking Southern and Central Africa. Lucrative dealing in ivory and ostrich feathers allowed local rulers to build up their arsenals and thus deter the aggressive designs of South Africa whites. An attempt by white settlers to seize control of southern Botswana was defeated in an 1853-53 war. However, European missionaries and traders were welcomed, leading to growth of Christian education and the consumption of industrial goods.
Economic growth since independence has been largely fueled by the rapid expansion of mining activity. Botswana has become one of the world’s leading producers of diamonds which typically account 80% of it export earnings. Local production is managed by Debswana Corporation, an even partnership between the Botswana government and DeBeers, a South Africa-based global corporation; DeBeers’ Central Selling Organization has a near monopoly on diamond sales world wide.

From Chobe I cycled towards south Passed the road junction which heading west to Kasani town. Kasani is a tourist town situated in the river bank, Kasai river join Zambezi river. Here is the get way to Chobe National Park, Caprivi Strip to North Namibia. I cycled towards south further interior of almost dry country.
Botswana has a sparsely population. The population is estimated to be 2 million people mostly based in urban areas which left the large arable part of the county inhabited. I entered the country in the north-east from Zimbabwe, Kazingula border. I rode for about 2km and stopped at Chobe the junction to Kasane town. The road to east is heading to Capriv Strip.

I kept on cycling from the Chobe as I took the main road which heading to Francis town via Nata and then to the capital city, Gaborone. I had several punch (a flat tire) because of the sharp thorn in the road. I had crazy ideal of over inflate the tires so to avoid shape thorns but, ironic, this lead to the tire bust. It was afternoon, very hot. I get more tired maybe because I was tried to ride very fast to find the village to re full the water bottles but four hours without success. After had a bust I decide to look for a shade and have a rest. As I was lied myself under the tree and enjoy the gentle, cool breeze accompanied with beautiful birds songs. The vehicles drivers who were passing by hon and shout something which I could not hear. I come to understand what they were meant when I reached certain farm house 60km from Chobe. It was near to 18hrs. I stopped in the house to ask for water and then to continue to Pandamatenga where I planed to overnight according to the map. After long calling one woman who latter introduce to me as Emelida come out and greeting out and great in Setswana language. She told me it is not possible to reach Pandamatenga which is 20km from here farm because there is a lot of lions in the plain. She add that; I will witness myself after dark fall when the Lions will start roaring and roaming around the house. Emelida said she was from Kasane and she passed me some where in the road, she wondered if I was aware that this was wild life areas. Here I got incite of what those vehicles drivers were shouting. Probably, they were said; "What is hell are you doing here! You are going to be special dinner of lions! etc, etc. Emelida offer me a room to sleep and in top of that there was strong dinner for me. (a stiff porridge, you know this is African meal. Here they call it "Papa" In Zambia "Nshima" and Tanzania Swahili is "Ugali"). Emalida was true, around 20hrs I could hear lions roaring, she told me don’t dare to get out during the night because hear lions are like strayed dogs in towns"
In next day, after breakfast which usually it include vegetable soup to worm up then cup of coffee which contain Milo and poured milk this goes together with 4 slices of loaf and corn flack. Or sometime like those time in Zambia I boiled sweet potatoes which were plenty. This is a strong breakfast which used to take me up to 13hrs when I stop for what I used to call simple lunch this is; bread which I smelt margarine and peanut butter sometime together with fresh fruits but very occasion. I don't find lot of fruits compere to East Africa.

I left the Emelida's house which boarded with other two neighborhood houses but scatted 07"15hrs. These houses are only houses found in the distance of 100km from Chobe to Pandamatenda. About 5km from the houses I could not believe my eyes when I saw two males lions walking slowly to the bush. The grass was long which made me not to see them from far. The distance was very close and I was in the speed. In my mind there was no replay of what I should do but thanks to my feet which were still pedaling in unimaginable speed. My heart get boosted hence heart rate and respiration, muscles get tensed and body fall in the general alert level. The lions were kept on walking to the bush probably, they were avoiding me. Even after passed them still I could not believe. I was still felt they were running after me so as my mind produce such kind of picture my feet accelerate the speed. Unfortunately, I didn't remember to have a look on my speed meter to record that speed. When I reached Pandamatenga just a small town, I stopped at the only fuel station where there is also take away kiosk. I was sweating, and felt unusual. No matter how hard I tried to put myself in the normal condition but the tension lived for some time. I entered in the take away kiosk without knowing what I was going to buy. I find out all of the people who were inside and other outside was looking on me. I don't know they were wonder after long bicycle traveler as most does or; my tension or; when I told the servant I want coffee. The servant asked "coffee!". Then I felt like work up and replayed to her "Yes cup of coffee''. As I was drink the coffee looking at the road tried to repeat the picture of what happen. I laugh myself.

One man come and seat beside me after Setswana greeting;"Dumela Rra" I replayed "Dumela Rra". The interview started as usual, then other people join and in few minutes I was in the middle of crowd. It become so common whenever I stopped people come and start asking questions and form little crowd. Unfortunately, some speak others do not speak English they do speak local languages so they usual don't enjoy the conversation. From Pandamatenga to Nata 200km I hitch hike as the information was the same 'wildlife areas’.

I reached Nata 18hrs.Nata is a small town just found along side the road and junction of the road from west(Maun), from North (Kasani) and from south (Francis town). The lodge I found around was expensive not affordable for such cyclist travel. I asked the truck driver to pitch my tent in the trailer. Here there were so many tracks packing. When I asked them WHY, they said it's Botswana law that during the weekend (Friday, Saturday and Sunday) the tracks shouldn't travel during the nights. They should stop when it reaches 18:00hrs up to the next day. They said this is to avoid the accidents which are in the high rate here. Tswana (Batswana) drink very heavy.
In the next I work up feel strong compare to the last day. During the night and morning it was very cold 5c. After having a breakfast I cycled towards west despite the fact that the situation was the same just like where I come from in the north. The body get worm but the air was heavy whereby I can't breathe through noise only. I use mouth breath.
I passed though farms and few villages. I stopped at the picnic site for lunch. The picnic sites are found mostly after 30km or so in most of southern Africa reads. I reached Gweta village 100km from Nata. After having a cup coffee in the take away kiosk I kept on cycling. In the evening 50km from Gweta I hitch hike to Maun.
Maun a delta town, get way to Okavanga Delta.
The pace where the water meet the desert. Here I overnight two night at Old bridge backpackers. I left Maun 10:00hrs after coming back from boat trip which I had been invited with friends. Cycled towards south west through semi-desert, passed few villages. In this semi-desert night and morning is very cold sometime up to -3C. During the day time the sun is very bright which rise the temperature up to 30C. The strong wind which blew from west to east/ south west to north east hinder my speed. I reach Toteng 14:30 my body was so exhausted plus headache. I hitch hike from Toteng to the next town Lake Ngami.The area is low land which coursed the Lake Ngami, the area surrounding the Lake its relative dry. I overnight at Lake Ngami and start the fever (Malaria)tables. In the next day I was felt bet stronger. I left Lake Ngami small town which is characterized by the indigenous paternalists early in the morning. I cycled towards North West. The wind was so strong. In the after noon when I reached Kuke village/check point. I could felt the pain of my back. The whole back born was real pain, this is the sign of high fever. From Kuke I hitch hike to Ghanzi town where I overnight at the wide deserted campsite. The camping ground offered free to me by the Kwaha Safari lodge. The night was very long. I only manage to sleep for few hours. I thought maybe is because of the Malaria dose which I was undertaking or because of the night cold. In the following day I decide to have a rest, I went for the walk in Ghanzi town. In this town it's where I found a lot of Basarwa, the San (Bush man of Kalahari). Here there are those who tried to copy the modern life as the Botswana government forces them. In the real fact from the few I observed and who I talked with it's real had to change their mode of life. Some are living in the tents and old houses which provided by government. There is nothing real for them to do as their not enough able to engage in the hand and heavy work. Most of them they are high substance abuser. Nearby the town there are the lodges which provide some Basarwa/San place to live. Here travelers come and have a chance to learn more about the life of this fist people to live in Kalahari Desert. Around the town the restaurant and bars were full and people (most of them are youth) are having fun. I remember the trucks drivers who said during the weekend in Botswana is only about drinking. In the after noon I returned to the camp. The fever was still high, the body was very hot. In the evening I had the companion of two gays who was over landing by hitch hiking from Britain to South Africa. We shared the time charting around the fire. The next day I left Kwaha safari lodge cycling slowly towards south west. In the late evening I manage to cover 100km.
I camp at the bush man village. Here I shared the meal with the bush man. The meal was two ostrich eggs and some boiled ground plant which I could not recognize. The next day early in the morning I left the village, I was bet strong maybe because of Ostrich eggs meal. I managed to cycle about 120km. In the evening I crossed the Trans Kalahari border post to Namibia.
.

ZIMBABWE, In the moment of crises comes the changers

In the Zimbabwe border post which was less crowded compare to Nakonde, I got the transit visa pushed my bicycle to the get where I found three police. One of them asked "Your passport sir? (Sir? Not common hear people called me Sir, this remind me to school when I stated learn English). I handed him my passport. After a short while he stayed again "I want to have a look on your bags Sir". He had a brief search but seem there was nothing in particular. It wasn't a real searching, perhaps, they were curious to see what this crazy man on the bicycle with several bags carrying.
The Victoria Falls town in Zimbabwe side is situated few kilometers from the border post. With all reason the town was grown because of the tourism activities which seems to be started long time compare to the Zambia side. Even the entrance fees are different in Zam is 10 US$ P.P., Zim side is 20US$ P.P. I overnight at the backpacker which found in the area. In the reception produce 50,000,000 Zimbabwe dollar which I bought for 1US$ in Zam to pay my bills but it was refused. The dread locks with several rings in his part of body receptionist told me you need several of those to get bread here ma men. That means the Zim currency doesn't work, due to the high ever inflatation in the country, payment done in US$ and R.S.A rand (ZAR). The crisis was the result of land reform, let say change of social economic structure to include majority black Zimbabwean. The matter take political shape and ruin general election which left the oldest African president, Robat Mugabe about four decade on the chair and stillneed some more. Developed world injected sanction on Mugabe’s government which later lose the rope and share leadership with leading opposition part kind of concept which adopted with other African governments such Kenya where democracy is still a day light dream. Mugabe lead Zimbabwe into 14 years armed straggle which help the country to achieve it formal independent April 1980. Before 1980the country was called Southern Rhodesia, a name that honored Cecil Rhodes, the British imperialist who had masterminded the colonial occupation of the territory in the late nineteenth century. For its black Africa majority, Rhodesia’s name was thus an expression of their subordination to a small minority of privileged white settlers whose racial hegemony was the product of Rhode’s conquest. Such structure took place even after formal independent with strong influence from developed country who impose gravely sanction to the country and Mugabe when he attempted to change it. The new name, Zimbabwe was symbolic of the greatness of the nation’s pre-colonial roots. Developed courtiers with their one side views made the situation of ordinary citizen more badly. Young got an excuse to leave the country, man venture beyond the boder find job make most of it with little concern of their family back home, and woman as usually they are the one who have to play major part. I met lot of them from Tanzania, zambia, Botswana, Namibia and South Africa try to trade whatever possible in order to save families back home. Wherever situation is in Zim, the country is still among of strongest in Africa with potential people who now want change. In any moment of transformation there is crises, perhaps it is the price for changers.
The backpacker was crowded with young traveler, I had long conservation with two Jewish. They explained to me how the situation was back in Israel where by young male and female have to join the army before continue with higher education. We discus the matter with it general concept of maintain security in the Middle East. My friend told me that it is not all youth agree with that idea some of them have the view of peace and finish the differences but Ironically, such ideal no chance in community. For those who attempt to go further against ideological war likely save several year jail sentences. These friends they finished army train recently work and save a bit which allow them to venture out and explore the world.
In the next day I left Victoria Falls town, cycled towards west instead of south to the central of the country as previous plain. I passed through Kazingula forest reserve, the home of the different animals such elephants, zebras, giraffe, et cetera live within miombo woodland and river valleys of Kasani and Zambezi. The flat terrains with rolling hills good tarmac road, less traffic, no pedalist, and morning cold morning made 70km for 3hrs with good sensations. Animals such giraffes, elephants, baboons, etc plus several bird species was the moving creatures I could see.

When I reached Kazingula border post everyone was in awe stuck . One of solder in the gate asked "My friend how can you dare to cross in the wildlife area with bicycle? Unfortunately, I had no proper answer for him so I just give him a smile instead of my answer “I just did”, I worry this may sound bit rude.

Monday, June 29, 2009

Zambia



After cleared the immigration procedure in Tanzania side I pushed my bicycle followed by crowed which was very useful because the help me to get to the exactly building in this crowed border post. In the Zambia immigration office the officers were more relaxed compare to Tanzania. I fill papers then get stamp on my booklet called passport. I cycled for 15km from the border in Zambia side stopped in the small shop for cold drink, here is where I realized I was already in other part of the world, currency, language, et cetera reveal the difference. I finished my little Tanzania money here, now I don’t have any cash I had visa card which I can use at Mpika town about 800km from where I was but I did have enough food supply, tent and bicycle that mean I was fine. I talked with shop keep different things regarding his country, the most obvious subject was country poverty in the moment.
Zambia was part of Rhodesia during the period of colonial possibly the main colonial interest was copper wealth that why the straggle to independent wasn’t hard compare to other southern Africa countries. The root of Zambia’s woes lie in Kaundas’s 27-years rule. During much of that period, the nation’s economy, along with the well-being of its citizen, steadily declined. The high rate of returns on exported copper made the national one of the most prosperous in Africa until 1975. Since then, fluctuating, but generally depressed, price for the metal and the disruption of the landlocked Zambia’s tradition sea outlets as a result of strife in neighboring states have had disastrous economic consequences.


I left Nakonde cycling slowly past corn sherp huts scarted in the miombo woodland. Most of these huts were well painted in differents coulers with certain image mainly flowers. I thought about deep inherit artistic behave of these people. This is a manifestation of industry, art, and culture known today in the modern world had it source in Africa. Paradox of Africa considered as dark continent full of miserable news.
The road was very lonely no pedalists at all, traffic was heavy track from and Tanzania as they deliver products from Dar es Salaam hobour to Zambia and Congo, Lubumbashi. Drives horn and wave to me enthusiastic. In the evening one track from Tanzania stopped few miters from where I was standing looking sun set. They were cheacking tires when I reached them we greet each in Swahili. They asked where I was planned to overnight I told them any where from there don’t in the village or in the bush. They invite me to ride with them to the next town where I will be able to have water because in this bush it hard to find. I ride with them and get of at King's campsite where I overnight. In the next morning I cycled towards south through Savannah bush land, overnight at the bush camp, about 15m out of main track cleared the ground by use my machete. Patch tent start cooking by made coffee to stimulate my metabolism and get back some sugar. Then I could make mixed grains porridge which gave me back calcium, some times I lost uptight, felt to have kind of liquid food so porridge with bred play part. In the next day cycled through the uninhibited but arable areas passed through small villages, I stopped in few occasions talked with children who stopped me shouting mbararaaa! Mbarara, mbaraa!. They were selling boiled ground nuts. Mbarara in a Bemba language means ground nuts this and sweat potatoes are main food crops in this dry miombo woodlands. I talked with these young fluent in Bemba practicing English which is school subject and few Swahili worlds from neighbor country. Other things these young and adult sell are charcoal, village chickens, eggs and guinea fowls caught in the bush.
Pedaling for whole day was challenge but the body was getting used day after day, monotonous miombo woodland made me more tired, in the evening I hitch hike to Mpika where I camped at Mzingo Hotel. From Mpika I got a lift in the early morning to Kabwe town where I reached 6:20am. Kabwe it among Zambian’sain town about 140km from capital city of Lusaka. The town was bit busy, I could see people rushing to the work and students to school others by foots with slow pace happily chat may be yesterday football match, news, exams,et cetera. There were others on mine buses, private vehicles, motor bike and bicycle; most of them seem to be in the deep thoughts. All these seen as I crossed this typical town with shops, fuel stations unusually to other towns such Mpika, Kapiri Mposhi, et cetera which town centers tend to be about 10km out of main road.This was the idea of president Kaunda to avoid prostitution and accidents” observed one old main I asked. I continue thinking about human life as I sense different after couples of days cycling in the less habitend areas except for those few copy and agreed with mather nature.
From Kabwe I cycled towards east then south east passed through miombo woodland but this was more green the sign of life compare to the northern where it was gravelly dry hence the hard life. I passed several named farms including lager ones belonged to those farmers flew from Zimbabwe. It was fan to see lot of sign boards with name of somebody farm it is not common to see this in Tanzania. Most of sign boards in Tanzania may be for schools. The day cycling was less tiresome, favored by weather which slowly approach southern hemisphere winter, flat terrains and lot of different things along the road made great zest. I approached Lusaka in the evening after 130km of cycling the body was still strong and able to continue. I camped at Brian compound; I met him when I was looking for campsite. Brian he invites me to have a dinner with him, as we were having a dinner of Nsima (stiff porridge/maize meal) and chicken pie we discussed about my expedition. Brian, kind and curious religious man become interested thought to arrange the interview with local televisions. He claims that such kind of expedition undertaken by black African youth will help to encourage others. Actually, I was trying to avoid to much publication after find out that media people they tend to sell news in the way which I do not like it. In fact I was doing something unusual guided with circumstes and leaded by quesquency. In the next day morning I had a brief interview with WOBI TV. I explained to them about the whole ideal and purposes of cycling. Mr. Phiri the journalist from WOBI TV who I had interviewed with said "this will also in courage other youth". Here cycling visibility study turned to be motivation cycling expedition.

I had short tour in Lusaka, visited tourist body had conversation with Meebelo Mulozi information and sale office then with culture tourism office. I went to new large shopping mall did little sopping, refill my gas stove. I left the city after early lunch of Nshima with capenta (saladine from Lake nyasa/Malawi) this is dominant menu in most local cafĂ©. I cycled for 150km passed through Kafue town on both side of kafue river the fist large river I crossed in Zambia since I entere the country from north. I turned off right shortly after Kafue town kept on cyclig passed Mazabuka town and others several township. In fact southern part of Zambia are more lively compare northern. In the 08:00pm I hitch hike to Chome where I camped and overnight in the compound of certain guest house. I left Chome early in the morning next day. I cycled for 200km to Livingstone, the longest distance in my cycling memory. I reached Livingstone 10:45pm. I camped at Jolly boys Backpackers. Livingistone town derived it name from 19th century white explore, is a Zambia’s main tourist destination here I met lot of travelers including young Dutch cyclist who decide to put his backpacker on bicycle and experience Africa in more close view and patiently. He had rough plain to cycle up to Egypt when I met him his credit card was broken, he planed to cycle to Lusaka and see his embassy try to sort support. He wrote to me later that he sold the bicycle at Dar es Salaam and went to Zanzibar forget cycling to Egypt. I left Livingstone town 10:30am, cycled to Victoria Falls/Big Falls which situated 10km south of the town. Know to local as Mosi-o-Tunya, the thunder of smoke. The first European named it after united Kingdom Victorian. They found in the might Zambezi river and act as the physical boundary of todays Zambia and Zimbabwe. The magnificent, 7th world wonders, world heritage site, Victoria Falls at almost 2km wide and 103 meters deep. The falls offer spectacular view Here I met a Belgium friend who paid the entrance fees for me. I spent 7hrs in side of Mosi-o-twa Np.

Zambia home of Victoria Falls, accommodate 19 national parks. Among of them Kafue, Luambe, Lower Zambezi, North Luangwa, South Luangwa and Mosi-o-Tunya National parks are frequent visited.

Zambia also busts wide range of cultural. With different ceremony such as Kiamboka ceremony the annual migration of Lozi people from low land to higher ground as the Zambezi plains in western Zambia flood in March.

There are more than 50 annual traditional ceremonies in Zambia manifesting customs, social life, ritual, oral history, material and spiritual cultural
In the evening I cycled to the border and cross the Zambezi Bridge to Zim
After crossing the Zambezi bridge where the border posts of Zambia the local people call it) and Zambia I found in each side of the greet Zambezi. As I was crossing the bridge it was so exiting to view the greet falls from the bridge. One might thought It is raining as the water from the falls pushed by wind to the bridge.
Victoria Falls is the name which this falls was given by the 19th century explorer Dr. Livingstone in his Zambezi exploration. He gave the falls that name in the honor of the queen Victoria.

Friday, May 29, 2009

Starting; From High Africa to Cape of Good Hope.

I left Arusha 9:30am Friday 5 June. It was rain when we left the predicted point of half way from Cairo Egypt to Cape town, South Africa. I felt strong as I was shaking hands with the couple of people who came to say "GOOD LUCK ELVIS"; actually, they real energize me. I could tell from their face most of them were not sure or convinced of what I was doing, some of them accompany me for few kilometers despite the fact that it was rain and the road was mad. I humbly take this chance to say, Thank you all.
I started cycling from Northern Highland which connects Kenya and Tanzania varies from 4,500 to 6,000ft. Cycling towards southern plateaus through Maasai steppe where there are two plateaus. One rises to between 3,000 and 4,000ft while the other rises between 5,000 and 6,000ft. In the boundary of these plateaus in the edge of giant step is where I’ll be passing. From Maasai steppe will take me to Central Plateau 3,000 to 4,000ft. Then I’ll cycle through Southern Highland 4,000 to 6,000ft which will continue to Zambia.
The first Pedal of cycling around Africa project will be starting from Arusha Tanzania, East Africa. East Africa is a geological region known as “High Africa”. The region characterized by expensive plateaus between 3’000 and 10,000 feet above the see level (Gravel 1989). The other dramatic landmark feature of landscape is the Rift Valley stretching 6,000 miles from the Red Sea in the north to Malawi in the south, spanning 20 t0 60 miles in width and sheer rock faces on ether side. The Rift valley forms natural corridor for wildlife migrations and movement of livestock. The Great Rift Valley including Rift Valley itself, as well as Mt. Kilimanjaro, Mt. Kenya and Mt. Ruwenzori.

Thirty kilometers from clock tower the tarmac road end up and I started to cycle through rough road. I passed through few Maasai villages and comiphora-acacia bush land which covered most of the part. Half of the way was down slope and terrain. Another half was sand, escarpment and up hills such Komolo hills.
In this Savannah plains/bush land is heaven of birds. In the edge of mountains I saw baboons and a small antelope, dick dick. I enjoy the tranquil and calmness of the area as I cycle for long time before meets any one in the road. Within this calmness, the brain which have derived it security from artificial things such television, radio, noise of the crowed, et cetera started to be scared. The sense of insecurity without real reason returned to the normal condition after hearing the cow bell from the bush give me hope that I'm not alone.


I arrived at the Nabikito village 18:30hrs. Here I went to the certain boma (the clutch of several huts) I enter in the boma and said “Hodiiii!”. One have to say that before enter in someone house. The young woman I found the instead of welcome me she run in side of one hut. Few minuts later middle age woman come out from the hut, “ Subai?” the woman greet in maa language “iko”, I replayed and switch to Kiswahili. I told her what I was want. She took me to the elder man who was with other old man sat under balanite tree busy counting the huge heard of cattle returned home. After greeting by shaking the hand with all these old man, I asked the elder man for the permission to camp within his large compound with several huts which represent the number of wives he posses. The old man without too much questins which usually represent the fears inside ones. The kind of situation I come to experience later in the expedition. .

These people they have simple understanding and knowledge knew some one like me I was in such need he gave the permission. Maasai huts doe not have much different with my tent. The huge host family was very kind or over kind, after pitch my tent in the crowd of the villagers who form the crowd of about 20 t0 25 people within half anhours dispite the fact that the bomas were scatted. The news of black man on the loaded bicycle spread as the people was moving. After finishing pitch the tent the milk fresh from he cow arrived so I made milk coffee. I drank my coffee as I was toured around the boma introduced to the wives with their children then to the cattle, goats and sheep. The older son of the boma who was clever enough to be my guide on the proposed tour explain to me about each cattle their titles, “this is a mother of that and that was bough from ngorongoro form Ole Sendeu. Did you know him?” This was how the explaination went on and on. Although I was tired but the tour was real interesting. Back to the my tent I followed by flood of different food from each wives. They sent food through their sons/daughters insisting I should eat. In that way I have to be clever by inviting these young to join me the plan work out, we finished all the food, out of blame but I slept with full stomac. The fun things happen in this boma was to confused as missionary by the woman and forced to drink fresh blood by elders. After fineshed to eat I streatch my back on the confortable thermo matres the donation from Bent Nelsen, before taken with to the sleep which usual is just like to turn to the log for about 7 to 8 hours. The woman who receved me when I arrived call out of my tent she could not remember my first name so she called “my son munis”. As I unzip the tent with half aweken mind I shocked with the crowd of children and woman soon I become full awake. my mind stated work on the normal speed when the woman say “ can you please say the prayer to us”. I didn’t know real what she want but she said prayer and she is serious. Oooh! Prayer Oky. I said to give my brain brief moment of working ruther fast. I avoid to ask too much questions because I lent the explaination of these friend of mine usually tend to be more wide and somehow complicated. I give the verses which was inside of me but I don’t know how they come out “ glory to those have pure heart…….. “ Oky let say a prayer which I lent in the very early of my age at Sunday school from Math.6:9….. Our father in heaven. Hallowed be thy name. Thy kingdom come Thy will be done in earth as it is in heaven. Give us this day our daily bread…..For thine is the kingdom, and the glory for ever. Amen” The crowd left with soften hearts. The red cross on my first aid made them thought I was probably a missionary. I made my way back to the tent, stretch myself again on mattress. I though about the need of spirit and such comfort. Isn’t to say these people didn’t have popular leading idea of sprit, they do have theoretical ideals of matter, life, the soul, and God. But clear seem it failed to meet the demands. As other human they still need some one to stimulate and pursue. Within this communities and many other I encountered there is reign of totalitarianism rather than democracy, the encouragement of obedience rather than independent thinking et cetera. They are in the need of strong believes which can raise hope and justify their existence especial for the people like these woman who stark on the barrier of culture. born grown some how malignazed (circumcision to privent her heaving sex stimulus), having numerous babies working hard to sustain them. Then get old and simply wait to die.

In the next day I left Maasai boma 7:00hrs bit late I was forced to wait for fresh milk from cow. Maasai mama (woman) told me is not unkind to let somebody who is going for such long journey leaving without some energy food such as milk. As I was waiting for milk, the elder man was preparing fresh blood drain from the bull. They do not kill the bull to have such blood instead they hold the bull then made a small hole on the certain vain at the neck. The blood bleed out with pressure, after having enough blood they stop the bleeding by applying cattle dung on the vain. The blood have to stir up to prevent it become sold. He wanted me to drink it said it was very strong. He sense that I was scared he mixed it with fresh milk. I tried to apologize but he felt like I was still scared so said I can share with other boys. This was alternative I just put the bow on my month pretend I drank then give to my fellow, the bow went about 3 round and it was finished. I thanked the whole family for the genorolosity promised to pass sometime again. The old man ask me if I’ll pass again I should brought to him cell phone.

It was nice and lovely riding through this bit high elevation bush land with some plain where i was able to see Zebras, Ostrich, Wildebeests and gazelles. I stopped the bicycle enjoying this wonderful moment but, the guards on the duty of conservation and maintainer of remain part of ecology, tsetse fly forced me to leave this wonderful sensations. It was like simply confused with a poacher or asked to pay unusually entrance fee but the sum which is to tolerate the bite of ferocious tin creature was very expensive. Thanks for them because I was still having couples of kilometers ahead. I passed Naberera village and Namalulu where I had wonderful and breath taking landscape view, typical African village. Naberera it is among of he dry dust village in Maasai Steppe. I hado stop in some time when huge heards of cattle cross the road and left behind dust clouds. At 18:00hrs I arrived at Engasumenti village after 2hours or less due to the day tiredness I cycle up quite slow. I turned left in towards direction of the sing board read “Police Post”. I the police post I found two officers sitting, relaxing and charting. The large building compare to the surrounding buildings seems absolutely useless, the lock up empty doesn’t even give the sign of last use, the toilet path covered by grass while in the long pit toilet it is home skinks, agamas and geckos lizard possibility for snake. I asked the officers of seem to lose their trained confidence over black cyclist. The grant me the permit just simply asking the id to prove the nationality, I camp under acacia tree near the building.

In the next day early in the morning i left engasumenti village which situated in the top of the hill, inhabited by Maasai pastoralists. Here the town start to show the sign as I can saw some shops and other services started in this Simanjiro district in new Manyara region. I descent the town where it was 10c very cold. cycled through the plains with the enjoyable speed of 25km/hr. In the other places road is very sand whereby I had to push my heavy loaded bicycle. The road is very long stretch as far as my eyes can see. It is very hot more than 3hrs without meet any one. I felt like bushes and birds used to talk and now they talking about this stranger with his bicycle. When i met Maasai people, they are in the group and they had spears with them here i had the sense of danger in this plains. There is Maasai stopped and start wonder about me speech less. Somewhere I found the group of maasaia they stopped me and ask the free ride for their patient who could not even stand up. I explain to them it was impossible to carry their patient but non seem to understand what I was saying, I decide to left them. About After 70km I made to Ndedo village the first village since I started to cycle in the morning. I went to the shop to re full my bottles of water, as shopkeeper offered me a drink. I saw the sign of fear in his face at last he asked me, "Where are going my friend?" I told him I'm going to Kibaya Kiteto. He said "You should be crazy!” He told me where I come from in the certain hill there is one Maasai killed by lions few days ago. He added that where I’m going it is more dangerous. As we was talking a track which was delivered drinks to Kibaya pull off out of the shop, drop the maasai I passed about 3hours ago with their patient. He talked with truck drive something which I couldn't hear but as I sow the truck looked at me. I guessed the man asked the truck drive to give me free ride. After few minutes the man come back and told me "Brother its better you cross these plains and bushes with this track, the drive is Okay. I accept the offer; we put my bicycle on the trailer and sat with it there .I drove with track for about 40 km in the plains and flood plains which form a forest with fertile land. We climbed several hills before had an aerial view of Kibaya Kiteto town ship where I reached in the late evening.
At kibaya Kiteto there are enough guest houses used by business people during the market days. As I was cycled around I saw a sign board read “ Riverine Hotel” this name capture my mind although in most areas I passed through it is ease to find some shops of guist houses named in English name but that doesn’t mean you will find it in any good quality or so. English language here tends to be like expression. The river side hotel situated in the edge of flood valley it has good quality which one can only expect on main town such Arusha. I saw tide garden so the possibly for camping. Unfortunately the middle aged woman servant didn’t understand what I meant. She gave me the cell phone number of the owner, I text the owner. Then within a minute my phone rang. The soft and gentle woman voice on other side of the phone give me instruction, she said she will be there after an hour. A confident face, shining brown skin woman shock my hand and said she was the own, after brief chatting she offered me free accommodation as part of her support.

In the next day 6:30am I start riding, climbed the up hills where I had an aerial view of the town again before decent to the plains. The recently graved with long up and down road was very nice whereby I cycled for 25 to 35km/hr. The entire landscape is characterized with hills, in the down hills there are fields of different crops. I climbed Dosidosi hills (1819m), passed through chains of villages. The road was still the same, managed to cycle for 35-40km/hr in the top speed. At 14:47hrs I met the high way from Morogoro to Dodoma. From here to Dodoma is 77km which I covered for 3hrs and half. This finishing part become more ease because of the 4 days cycling in the tough roads, the total distance in that day was 160km. I arrive at Dodoma (Legislative capital of Tanzania) 18:30hrs. I found a gentleman on the last 20km who helped me in to find accommodation as the dark was already starting to take place. After long search for affordable accommodation as everything in this governmental town seem to be expensive particular accommodations (for me). Lastly I land on CCT a Christian center, the receptionist was drunken, told me the charges will be in the next day morning and it'll be reasonable as this was my consideration. I perch my tent on the certain corner, I had shower in the flooding showers, cooked and fall a sleep just like a log. In the next day another man come and told me he is in charge, when I asked him about charges he said it is twelve thousands(Tsh) for camping. I wondered if this was reasonable (for me). After long negotiation I paid 5000Tsh without satisfactions. I left the place 10:00hrs cycling around the town and left the town 11:15hrs to Mtera .
I cycled through the semi-desert of central Tanzania passed through Wa-Gogo villages with the typical mad houses covered with red soil for the top to the bottom. The tembe rectangular, flat-roofed built around the kraal of the local Wa-gogo ethnic group, were the only feature hat distinguished Dodoma from the surrounding miles of thin soil, monotonous miombo woodland, and granite outcrops. The 19th century explore, Stanley after his observation of the area he claimed Wa-gogo to be “Masters in foxy-craft”, were widely scatted over the plain, practicing pastoralist and cultivation with sorghum, millet, and maize. The water holes were well maintained and, for a fee, could be relied upon by slavers who passed this way during the dry season. The life in this backed land seemed to be rather challenging for these people. The humanterrain situation, burning sun, dust, made the pedaling be nothing than a mere movement. Few tracks over loaded with cargo and passengers stopped for brief curious chat. Mtera village lies about 100km east of Dodoma. The village/town situated in the border between Iringa region and Dodoma. In the southern lies Mtere dam (Reservoir) which is hydro-power station. Mtera, large water body in this backed land give crucial support for life, here found the main population in this sparsely populated region in Tanzania. Fishing in the dam which receives the water from the southern highlands is a main economic activities together with the job opportunity in the hydro power station give rise to Mtera Township. There are signs of the town history to go back on the trade ages as the Swahili civilization seem to be strong.


The road from Mtera to Iringa It's not good for bicycle such as my which is heavy loaded, due to this and some roamers that further ahead in the highlands might be challenge to camp in the bush. This might not be good for sole ride, said the hydro power station worker. This was kind of irritation when people put me in their state of mind and made decision for me. From the dam is a long up climbing then bit of highland flat terrains the home of mixture ethnics including Maasai. I had ride from Electrical Company truck drive who previous wanted me to pay, he changed his mind when we arrived Iringa town. I arrive in Iringa town 19:00hrs. I overnight at the guest house. I left guest house in the morning, cycled to town where I found the internet. From here is where I'm publishing this post.

After Maasai Steppe and semi-desert of central Tanzania now I start riding through southern highlands of Tanzania which will take me to the border of Tanzania and Zambia. I will come up again when I'll hit internet.

After finish to upload the pictures and post up to date in the blog I left Iringa town which pitch in the up hill, 12:30hrs. I cycled towards south-east of the town, through Iringa-Makambako-Mbeya highway. 10km from town I had to stop after broke the bolt which holds the front panniers. I put one font pannier in the back and ride with single pannier in front up to the certain village. Luckily, I found the bolt in the village. I fixed the pannier and cycle for few kilometers before turn off left to Ismila Age Stone Museum. Here is the excavation of the remains showed the tools which have been used during the Age stone.

After having a short tour in Ismila museum I cycled 50km to Kisolansa Old Farm House. No matter how hard I tried to push my loaded bicycle avoiding to cycle in the dark. I reach at Kisolansa 21hrs,I camped here .Kisolansa Old Farm Houses lays about 50km from Iringa town in the Mbeya-Iringa highway. The farm houses which situated in the middle of planted forest of Southern Tanzania highlands, offered accommodation from camping, chalets to cartage. The place was very cold during night and morning.

I left Kisolansa next day in the morning. I cycled through southern highlands, it was pleasant cycling. Lush green of huge plantation forests such sao hill pleases the mind and made it out of pedaling concentration. Fresh oxygen goes deep into lungs and spread all over the body made it out of fatigue. Long ups and downs improve the physical being. Within 3hrs I coved 59km without being aware, the couple I left at Kisolansa stopped their car when the met me and told me I was already covered such amazing distance.
Villages are small with typical Wa-hehe people; these are indigenous people in this southern highlands of Tanzania (1,500-2,000m). They are among of famous ethnic group in Tanzania/ Tanganyika history, their bravest Chief, Chief Mkwawa the son of Mwinyigumba he declared that he will not allow to be ruled with foreigners(colonias) neither his body to be touched by white person. He gave total resistance against German colonial during 1905-07 war. These warlike people under the strong leader Mkwawa defeated German and killed among of high rank German colon represented. German responds by add more solders and fire arm. When Mkwawa realized he was defatted and this could lead to be caught by white person, he fulfills his promise by shout himself. When German found his coups they chop of the heard and took it to German for more examinations. The head was return to Tanzania after independent, now found in the museum established in his home village.
In passed Mufindi town, characterized by several sow mills, along side the road are children selling potatoes or working on bricks fabrication. Wore pull over/sweater all the time, shining brown sickens young looked to be over whelmed with weather condition. I tried to wave but few were able to wave back. I made to other sow mills town of Makambako n the late evening, the town favourished due to the timber exportation business, I overnight at Makambako town. There are plenty of hotels in Makambako town. I camped at Makambako hotel. I left Makambako next day early in the morning cycled for about 120km via Usangu valley to Mbeya town. I overnight at Penge Logde. I poped in Penge lodge ask for camp the respond was no such service. Some visitors who were in reception interested with cyclist offered to pay room for me with an invitation to diner. I accept the offers and thanks them for their kindness. They told me later in the diner charting that they passed me in certain up hill afternoon. They were worry about fast traffic on that road. Nice people, balanced diet diner, hot water shower, and comfortable bid add the day highlights. In the next day I left Mbeya, cycled through coffee plantation, descent from southern highland to Tunduma border post. Overnight at the crowded local guest houses, slept comfortable despite the half night drinkers noise. The town is crowded with vendors, hands bureau de change their main profit depend on how stupid the customers are. An aerial view of the town show the sprawling slams where is home of the people who tried to make life here; vendors, money changers, forward and clearance agents and prostitute for those who are desperate. Mention but a few.

Roughly 1,000kms cross Tanzania here with all sense of proud for the achievement, the black man on loaded bicycle capture almost every one with sense of wonder and excitement. Followed with money changers, clearance agents and curious job less I entered in Tanzania immigration office. They hardly believe I was their fellow citizen, thir main concern was how will I survive on bicycle out side of mother country. I explain to them my simple believe “This continent and earth in general belong to us, the bounders particular in Africa is a results of slave masters greed. The control of the people movement around the world for particular social rank group has interest on economy and manipulation”, having said that I star work out of the office avoiding futher questions from these officers with thirst of person realization. The good wishers follows me as I walked to where I parked my bicycle guarded with volunteer guards.