Thursday, June 17, 2010

The out come

Prior to Cycling around Africa (visibility study) this so far on the saddle took me to twelve African countries. It was worthwhile, as much I lent as many I experienced, amongst them is environmental (ecology) and it influence in the social development. As I rod in the print before pedal as I practical saw, without much industries (except very south of continent) perhaps which could help to keep the pace of modern human, Southern Sahara in high percent rely upon it natural environment to sustain it generations. Having know that and share the though with expertise we will lead annual expedition with annual theme and involvement in suitable development in the, most, rural areas.

In the began the expeditions will take part in East Africa, Why East Africa? It unique position makes it vulnerable as well so we decide to put emphasize on this part in order to protect it as well as to try to develop it in the more balance way. First expedition will be cycling around Tanzania (Tour de Tanzania, TDT) race and expedition, it is an opportunity to train yourself in the natural bounty but enough challenge, it an opportunity to visit most popular games in the world some as you sit on your saddle, it is an opportunity to come together with very traditional people; share what you may and perhaps support them if you think fit. And probably much more as you may know, all for 50USD per day, for 50 day including climb Kilimanjaro, camping, meals and what?

Second expedition is “Three Summits”, the overland tour around East Africa with Mt.Kenya, Ruwenzori and Kilimanjaro climb and other traditional overland activities. Perhaps you know something about Africa dream to support it this is you chance to rise very single dollar and we will accompany you to the African highest peaks.

Both expedition may sound like military train, absolutely not, they are highly catering to make sure you appreciate them mental and physical, we try to make them comfortable and enjoyable as much as possible, with support tracks in cycling expedition and high experienced leaders in “Three Summits”. The expedition will start official 1st May 2011, 50 days on the road including climb Kilimanjaro followed by “three summits” on 1st July for 36 days around East Africa.

Here is the itineraries http://afrikasafaris.blogspot.com/2010/06/tour-de-tanzania.html
http://afrikasafaris.blogspot.com/2010/06/three-summits-est-africa-overland.html

Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Tour D'Afrique 2010

I met with Michael Coo, the Tour d'Afrique office re presenter from Ontario Canada in the evening of march 14th at Maasai camp. He introduced to me our driver Eddy a.k.a trust the guide. In the next morning we left Arusha driving towards west of town for our new route scouting, before the sun sink to the west we set up our bush camp on the hills of Mbulu highlands. Next day we drove to Singida town, visit market, hotel which could be used and so on. We continue with our driving few stop for marking point on GPS for place such Cake stops, Chai stops, bush camp and much more. In the evening we set up our bush camp on the calm and tranquilly miombo woodlands of Rugwa game reserve. Made our dinner followed by cup of coffee then each hide in the tents listen for monotonous calling before interrupted by rain. We left our lovely bush camp in the morning driving to Mbeya stopped on the way for lunch of Maandazi (sort of donate or fat cake as people of southern Africa called them). The day highlight was driving through highest point of tare roads in Tanzania interns of elevation. In this Mbeya Range the road went up to 25000m.a.s.l, I'm worry next year TDA riders will fly on the descend to Mbeya town.

We left Mbeya and drove to Iringa where Eddy our fun friend ever dropped us, from Iringa we board bus which my colleague Mike called "Chicken Bus" to Dodoma town. Here we met the historical continental tour, TDA riders and Staffs.

I spent six days with tour frankly to say dream come true, I anticipated to work with this amazing company on their wonderful cross Africa bicycle race and expedition. I cycled and help with different task as well all these enrich and enlighten me with different operation tasks.

Thanks to all TDA staffs for their generosity and unmeasurable kindness towards me during my short train with the tour. Tanzania Cycling Tour Packages

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Kenya

We arrived here, in northern Kenya, The caravan had to left me here as they continue to with their round trip. I was wonder how should I thank them to make sure they appreciate my feeling but they where before me as they said “never mind, you are welcome any time”. I hitch hike from Turukana’s people land after heard the rumours that these ferocious nilots people who massacre lot of people in the recently post election clashes may confuse me with what called "GEMA community". GEMA community is he community which include Ge-Kuyu, Kamba, etcetera who are Bantu from central Kenya, seemed to be among of the well developed people therefore sized lot of opportunity within the country hence tribalism. The country political have characterized with such ethnics aspect hence recent post election clashes which took about 200 hundred people’s life and left others become internal refugees.

I arrived at Malaba town where I stamp my passport. I took bus to Nairobi after deep experienced chest/heart pain whenever I tried to cycle for more than 40kms.
In the busy city of Nairobi I stayed at Nairobi Polytechnics University where I stay with friend I met on the bus. A friend and others who I met there were very helpful for my stay in Nairobi. Visited different places of this city strengthened with tourist industry and growing number of manufacture and service which made the it as commercial centre of East Africa. There is slightly different with other Africa cities I have been, much of the different may be owe it origin from colonial era and the country good contact with western contrary to the neighbour Tanzania whose become fond to socialist during the post independent time. In the general view all east Africa countries nevertheless escape the fact that they share much in common rather than differences. ordinary folks, with their slight different of culture, tradition and customs bond together by natural environment and evolutions.

I’ll cycle back to Arusha about 300kms after met the doctor who said the pain may be caused by cold.

Bicycle tours are an excellent and intimate way for the intrepid traveller to truly discover a nation and its people: freed from the physical and cultural constraints of motorized transport, one is able to experience the reality of a place.These were very last though as I cycle back to civilized life.

Monday, January 4, 2010

Southern Sudan and Ethiopia.


The journey was long and slow with several stops for prayers as the travellers was Muslims as well as eating and pee. I had to join 5 times prayer a day, use the little water we fetch on the oases to wash or merely weep different part of body including heard, hands, bu***ock and feet. Washing and prayer's postures sound like yoga. In calmness just interrupted by wind only,tried to follow the prayer words just much with my fellows but the young man, my guide, told me it wasn’t wise to say anything since I didn’t understand Arabic. For this reason and that one I do not speak the language of the people I'm with wasn't make me feel good so I start to learn few words day by day. I enjoyed my new experience, prayer made me felt safe in the middle of these strong believer folks, they are strangers but with their sense of humour, kind and welcome nevertheless I could think negative.

Travel day and night, in the full moon and thousands stars but chill cold nights and the hot with bright sun days; we stopped in several villages, absolutely in the middle of know where, once I wonder What if these people decide to sacrifice me? "I'll run in this desert" answered myself. I wish I had their location cods (Latitude and Longitude) so I could such in the goggle map today perhaps I can, we all the satellite maps, why not? In other village found in the total sand plains with few Balanite and Acacia trees, we found villagers living in the tents, my interpreter told me they were nomad peoples. Together we visit some tents which he knew, here is when I was shocked with their kindly character, saved with woman who had to knell down to welcome us or great, we were forced to eat and drink. I wonder myself, these people living in the middle of no where they should conserve what they have got but ironically they seemed not to care for that, this desert teach them the lesson which I haven't yet to lent. Such experience remind to the peoples living in the place of abundant but with over greed and find more rather than use what they have. I was and still fond of that community with their amazing customs and understand of the state of material. I asked my friend if I can live with them. He passed this question to an old man who invited us black coffee with sweet stuff like resins. The old man replayed “sure, I will marry him my daughter and offer them two camels to help them start life”. Till today I am still thinking about the offer, perhaps I have to work hard to fill my blank space then return to live such unique life in that world.

What seemed like end less journey continue through semi-desert areas. In the bright blue sky there were what I thought to be falcons or other rapturous souring for entire day. Late I found out some were migratory birds flying higher probably to escape hot backed surface. In occasion we met solders but non bother with each, neither caravan no solders. I almost forget day and dates even time which wasn’t existed to my fellows, they can look on the sky and know it was time to pray. It was among of the time I was ever free from modern world of unnecessary time which often is source of frustrations.

There was no need to ask where I was as I though it maybe kind of nonsense question to my fellow so I maintain same pace just calm and do what needed on the time which was, be calm!.In the remote southern part of Ethiopia we met different peoples of different culture described by their dress code, houses, ornaments,etcetera. It could be rude to ask my fellows who were these peoples? as it is common in tourist areas. My followers seemed to understand things basically or in the way that I couldn’t grasp. Among of the people I saw in southern Ethiopia were woman who wear plate like in their lower lips. Other were both sex wear sticks in their noise. Most of the peoples I found were unusual even for general looking. I promise to go back there for much discovery.

After what was cycling turned to came ride, we arrived in northern Kenya at Lake Turukana basin.

Uganda, the African pearls

In the late evening I arrived at Mirama Township in Uganda exhausted and thirst of sugary cold drink. I stopped at the small shop and ask for cake. The young girl possible 20yrs offered me cold drinks while she knells down as she said “bienven”, welcome; she though I was Rwandan. She told me I was look like Rwandan, I told her that is true I am African yet a human being, and nothing can differentiate. Perhaps the comment was too strong as she look confused but for such tired cyclist no more questions were welcomed. Where I parked my bike small crowed start to form,wonder after touring bike, just weigh it by eyes, How far is it from?, and so on, thanks it give them something to talk about. The girl in the shop refused my coke payment, said she was pleased to by me that drink and she will not mind if I would like to add the offer which I accept without think. I asked her if she have idea where can I find camping. She said there was no established one but she can talk with her parents to offer me an accommodation. I pitch my tent in they compound and shared dinner and breakfast them. The family was so kind to me, they convinced me to stay with them for one more night. I turned the offer down for the excuse that I’m under tight schedule. I kept on cycling though this lush green country after three days of constant challenge cycling I arrived Kampala city. I crossed the equator point which found 3420m, about 12 thousands to southern hemisphere like wise to northern.

I had two day rest in the crowded and busy city of Kampala. On my way to Makerere Univasity to met a friend, I board popular Kampala transport motor cycle famous as “Boda Boda” we had to change road because of the protests that burnt fuel track with Indian man inside of it. In the city central there was cold demonstration due to the government order to stop the Kabaka II, the king of the Buganda kingdom which has its central in Kampala and cover from Jinja, Kampala and Entebe. In the eighteenth century the ingdom of Baganda become the most powerful in the region. The Baganda people demand government to give back their power, they just refusing to be under Republic government. In the street there was wall words said “LETS STOP POLITIKING AND BUILD UGANDA.”

I left Kampala cycled to Jinja passed through busy road. I stopped at Mabira rain forest for the lunch, the part of equatorial rain forest. In the late evening I crossed the bridge which went through Owen Falls Dam in the Nile River. I overnight at Adrift base camp in the bank of Might Nile. In this base there are different adventure activities including water rafting and bungee jump with slogan “Touch The Source of Nile”. It cost about $65 but I asked if I could do it naked it free.
In this very town it is where 19th century explores claim to be source of River Nile stat it journey of 3000kms to Mediterranean Ocean. I left Jinja the adventure town of Uganda, cycled to the Mbale, the closest town to Elgon Mountains. In the next day cycled towards northern Uganda passed through sugarcan and cotton farms. It was long board cycling, I hitch hike the track in the evening and arrived at Katgum town in the next morning. Here I met Karamoja people, the people who are among Nilohatic. They are still practicing their ordinary way of living just like Maasai of Tanzania. As we was chart with drive he gave me more adventure plan since I had no enough money to buy visa for Sudan and Ethiopia. The drive offered to drive me up to somewhere I can meet merchant travelers. These merchant who are much closed related with Bedui they conduct their business between North Uganda, Southern Sudan, Ethiopia and North Kenya. I joined the camel travelers as it was the option to pass through southern Sudan and Ethiopia. There I met the caravan on last day preparation fortunately I found a young boy about 23 years old who could speak. I told him my plan to travel with them in the replay he said he can’t make any decision so he had to take me to his senior. There I met a shining black man with tabernacle which cover his hear and leave only face with large pure white eyes which can shine in the dark. By looking I thought this ever calm man to met will turn me down but I was courage enough which impressed him. This chief navigator of the long camel caravan told me how he started to travel since he was you just close to my age but he used camel. I dismantle my bile and every thing parked on the camel. The journey started on the evening when the hot was decreasing let the cold to take place. I had brief train before given my own camel carried my stuff and of cargo. The young men lend me a tabernacle with long white robe so non cold differentiate me from the rest. The first reason to travel in this caravan was to skip pay any visa for two boundary less country. These merchant they have been known for long time, they do not use boarder post to ext or enter any county.

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Rwanda, in the heart of Africa

I pitch my tent in the track trailer, made dinner and slept. I was able to work up early in the next day after breakfast I left the town. The morning view of sky cover with morning mist, dump air and lush green on the rolling hills over and over to the four side horizons was worm welcome to the very heart of Africa I cycled in the road which goes along side Kagera National Park. Several tourist vehicles pass taking people who traveled from different angle of the world. Venture to this remote country to experience the magnificent animals’ n their native environment. I just though most of them perhaps all ready watch film such “Gorillas In The Mist” about late Dian Fossey’s pioneering work. Here it manifest itself that watching these fascinating creatures on the television is exciting enough but nothing in comparison to the thrill of visiting them firsthand. In the flat terrain with gently hills, the landscape characterized mountains hence the name “The County of a Thousand Hills”, valleys, marshes, several rivers and cultivated fields; conclude “The country of Perpetual Spring”. In the town people were rushing to their work places in the farms people were busy as well. There were lot of self-contained compounds and work a sign of life quality.

I stopped at Gabiro town after 34kms. I chart with locals as I was drinking my cold drink. The conversations start with curious young but lost for short give the chance for couple farmer. I narrated m stories to Hutu farmers while they were patiently listen. I turned to them with my questions about genocide and current status. They were nearly turned me down clamed that my questions were to political so I better find a politician, but kept on with conversation after convinced them I am just what to learn and there were nothing else on my intention. I sensed that perhaps they were felt guilt. Since I am interested with cause these were potential people to portray very history of this densely populated small country.
So there we emerged deep cause one of the century’s great tragedies, in a small country (26,336km square) with 8 million people (before genocide) ranked early1994, most densely populated state. The story had to part completely different, there are some account said that, the Tutsi arrived as northerners Nilotic conquers perhaps early 15th century. While others believe that the two groups have always been defined by class or castle rather than by ethnicity. This myth like account kept on say that the godlike ruler Kigwa fashioned a test to choose his successor. He gave each of his sons a bowl of milk to guard during the night. His son Gatwa drank the milk, Yahutu slept and spilled the milk. Only Gatusi guarded it well. This justifies Rwanda’s social order, in which the Twa (pygmies) were the outcasts, the Hutu servants, and Tutsi aristocrats. Historically, Hutu serf herded cattle and performed various other services for their Tutsi “protectors”. At the top of the hierarchy.

I resume my cycling, my mind occupied with what I wasn’t conscious want to think about. The country side was extraordinary beauty but failed to turn mind. Lastly I came up with clue Tutsi has high chance of being Nilots but due to the cause and conditions which made them to intermarriage result even speak one language “Kinyarwanda”. Looked the same physically, notwithstanding the stereotyped of the Tutsi being exceptionally tall, It is almost impossible for outside to differentiate between the two groups. I kept on convince myself that as the process of intermingle this group was took the place as any where in the world the outside arrived with their interest. Though that the colonialists’ ideal such as encouraging predominant Hutu (86%) to grow cashcrops especial coffee, and other ideal relate with divide and rule wide the distinction between these two groups which since then was under one rule “Mwami”. These very kind of things with ever-increase pressure of people and herds, greed and authoritarianism characterized countries political hence civil war and genocide.
After won my mind battle I was able to continue energetically cycling and absorbed the beauty of these Hart Of Africa which despite of the harsh past story the nature still manifest its beauty. There were several courage words and waves from the people in the farms, shops, vehicles, etc. These were the signs of welcomed and friendly people. Some other youth joined me for few kilometers showed me how good they are while in French/Kiswahili tell me how they were proud to see black man on bicycle tour.

Thursday, December 3, 2009

TANZANIA NORTHERN HIGH LANDS TO LAKE ZONE

I left Arusha 15th Nov planned to undertake the second pedal of cycling around Africa. After successful first pedal in southern Africa, I got back in Arusha gather energy and try to raise fund for the second part. This part has been challenge enough. Finally I decide to set with little fund I managed to raise from friends who participated in my representation prepared by CRC (Conservation Resource Centre). The lecture/talking about my trip wasn’t real my ideal although I could do if asked. That is what happened it was in the lunch break with CRC members and office manager at the office, the office manager Miss Dassa Nkini suggested that I should present my bicycle trip. This cleave woman to whom I owe her respect said that “You done something which I think it is unusual in our community so it is good ideal to share your experience with others. Think this together with your biography may act as a catalyst to influence and encourage others to find their potential.” From her ideal is where I got an insight of write this book despite the fact that there are so many adventure books and thousands describe Africa. I am personally believe that there is no excess knowledge so no matter how many books in the shelves describe our mother continent non can optimize another.
About 25 people turn up in the small office room all of them support me when I announce that I am leaving for second pedal. In particular I thank Howard and Benoit for their immeasurable fast support. The plan was to cycle until when I see financial green light. In this part budget has to hike up due to Ethiopia visa (100US$), Sudan visa (100US$), Egypt visa (100US$), food and camping for one month (200 US$). The fund I have up to the moment can sustain me for East Africa counters.


I left Arusha with Stive Mtui and Jacob who voluntary decide to buy food supply which can support us for 600km. The retired Danish professionally cyclist, Bent who cycled across Africa in 2008 with Tour D’ Afrique accompany us for 85km (one day). Thank you Bent for such support and courage. We left Arusha clock tower 10:30am in the group of nine cyclists. We cycled towards west side of town through main road to Tanzania popular tourists destinations such Ngorongoro crater, Serengeti National Park, et cetera. We stopped at Meserani Snake Park for cold drink; other friends turn back from here. After half an hour break we continue in the group of for people. The cycling was enthusiastic as every body seems to enjoy it with occasional chatting and have enough energy except for me when I failed to keep up with the group pace in the rolling hills near Makuyuni junction, This was due to my heavy loaded bicycle compare to others. We arrived at Makuyuni a dry flat town but this time was patched with green cause of the recent rain. We camp at the local guest house compound for free. We had offer from Bent who bought us dinner while a friend who I met when I was cycled to central Tanzania December 2008 bought us drinks.

Crossing Rift Valley, Ngorongoro highlands and Serengeti plains.
In the following morning we left Makuyuni 7:30am, Bent cycled back to Arusha town while three of us embarked the flat terrains of Great Rift Valley floor, cycled towards north east. In the cool morning with gentile breeze from Ngorongoro highland, beautiful birds’ calls, lush green, long acacia and shrubs landscape stretch up to the horizon of wall of Greet Rift Valley. This flat terrains stretch in both side of the road; In left side of the road the depression caused alkaline Lake Manyara while far north between volcanic peaks (3000m)lie another alkaline Lake Natron.
Along side the road we could see poor health maasai cattle cause of recently last long drought which cut off significant numbers of maasai livestock. The scatted Maasai huts, Maasai elders wore visible red shuka stand out side one long stick in one hand other short one merely watching us while young, enthusiastic, wave towards us and shout Mzungu! Mzungu! All these together made 30km through flat terrain become short. After one hour and half of riding we stopped at small but lively, Mto Wambu town (mosquito Creek). Here we rueful our bottle and have banana snacks before embarking on the Great Rift Valley escarpment 7km step. Even after finishing escarpment the cycling was still challenge as we cycled towards Ngorongoro highlands. The sun which rises gravely hot hence too much sweating, made us took a nap at lunch break before Karatu town. We resume our cycling which was characterized with long up hill cycling till Lodware gate, Ngorongoro entrance. We reached at the gate which situated within 1800-2000m.a.s.l at 08pm. We camped at village leader compound just outside the Ngorongoro entrance.

We work up 5:00am in the next day, had cup of coffee and mixed grains porridge. We dismantle our tent and parked our belongs within 5minutis as one of the range we met last night called me said there is a track crossing both reserve Serengeti and Ngorongoro. Last night he said it is impossible for us to cross two overlapping conserved areas with our bicycle. I didn’t agree with this view point since we were locals and in fact inside the reserve there are walking safaris as well as ordinary folk’s homes. It was rather time wasting to discuses this with narrow minded Ranger who couldn’t even let us met senior conservator because he strongly believe he will gave the same answer. The track drive demand 35,000Tsh for each. We failed to pay such high sum and let him go. After long wait the empty tourist land cruse arrive. The drive said he is going to receive client at Lobo northern part of Serengeti National Park. He demands 15,000Tsh per each up to Seronera. I had to owe Jacob as I had no cash in that moment. In Naabi hill gate, the entrance to Serengeti National Park. Rangers on duty refused to let us dropped at Seronera as it was still inside of the park. The drive demand 5,000Tsh addition to take us out of the park in Ikoma gate.
The treatment we received from these trained servants for both protection and management of remain natural areas was rather hash. They merely consider these places as sacred place for you who do not have money. I realized that as it was Ice ages this is money $ ages. In deep down in the mind there is still skin color arrogance but I guess for any poor cyclist my face the same challenge.
We arrived Ikoma gate 05pm from here we parked our bicycle again and cycled through mad road with worn from rage on due to watch out wild animals especial elephants and lions. I wonder what was the hell to cross that merely potion of land with car while we was still have to cycle in such risk areas. We pushed our bicycle after failed to cycle in the black cotton soil sticking like glue made impossible for the tire to rotate. We arrived at Ikoma village one hour late. We overnight at policeman house. We left the village next morning cycled through Ikorongo and Gurumeti game reserves a part of Serengeti ecosystem where wild animals move freely since there is no physical boundary. We had to stop several times observing wild animals such as Impala rums, zebras, buffaloes, topi herds, giraffes and several birds. About 15minuts cycling from reserves headquarter we found large herds of elephants feeding cross the main track. We waited for almost 2hrs on different wind direction avoiding to be detected with these huge creatures on the earth surface poor in sight but keen on smell and marvelous on sounds. Late we took the risk when small track was driving across. The fun moment was when other elephant cross road the distance of 50 miters I was nearly to hold breaks but subconsciously I kept on pedaling which made the elephant run as well. Somewhere in the road we find the fresh lion’s foot prints. As we was finished the reserves we met solitary buffalo’s males. They were not pleased with our intervention so charged and try to chase us without success. We stopped bit after reserves at 01pm for lunch. From there we cycled for 3hrs with rain. We stopped at Mgeta village and overnight in police house by surrender our IDs. We pass the evening with police officers who narrated the challenge of their work in this remote area with little civilization. The local, Kuria people are known for their ruddness.


In the next morning we left Mgeta village and cycled through rolling hills with the peak of (1784m) Chamliko. We stopped at Ikizu junction, here I was amazed after seen the vehicles selling the remaining fish after being chopped the entire meet. Locals told me these remains are from fish industry at Musoma in the shore of Lake Victoria where they process fish for export. We cycled to Butiama village where the fist president of Tanzania was born. We refused to camp on the museum compound which s on the 24 hours solder guards. We cycled down to main road from Musoma –Kenya, camped out side guest house compound after fist camp in side and told to move outside if we can’t pay. In fact there was nothing to pay for, my tent was better than rooms.

In the next day we cycled for 30km and reach Bunda town. We left Bunda and cycled for another 60km and stopped at Bumbala village. Here we made a late superghetten lunch. We ate in the middle of village crowd who come to see what they claim to be magic. They don’t what is the gas stove nether supergatte which the call worms. There were other widespread “ Once I went to town I saw people eat those worms while here is a food of chickens”, while children told us what was their favorites food rice ranck number one. Unfortunately, we were too hungry so there were nothing to share with audiences. I was one to announce the ideal to sleep on this interesting village. One of the spectator invite us to camp on his back yard. We spent evening on the Lake Victoria where we had shower and long chart with fisherman and herders who brought their huge horns ankole cattle to drink water.
In the next morning I work up early when this part of world was still calm in the middle of transformation between dark and light. The full moon which dominated the dark was slowly swallowed with the bright golden violet color from far East. Birds such as Robin chats, sparrows, doves, hornbill, etc were enthusiastic celebrate this ritual. I too, absorbed with the rhythm and surrounding gases, I found in myself celebrating this short leaved world. As I was standing in the middle of the road with a cup of coffee, I turn back to the normal world when I was interrupted with group of the people who I saw from far just only images in the line. When they reach closed we was wonder after each, I observed them every body from young to adults carried hoe in the shoulder and water in the hand. It was time to go to the farms, about hour late almost the entire village was deserted except the house we camp who said they were Baptist so they do not work on Saturday. We cycled for 80km alongside the lake shore, had a break at the village where we found people made Dhow and boats. It was amazing discovery to see how they skillful band particular timber until to form certain form. The thing I grasps from these people is their patience accumulated for long time. We arrive at ferry to Ukerewe Island in the late afternoon, made our lunch of rice and boiled ever cheep fish on the shower as we waited for ferry.
We cross the lake with ferry which took half an hour to reach the largest Island in the Lake Victoria, Ukerewe Island. We cycled for 15km to Nansio town and sort free camped at Monarch beach hotel.
We pitch our tents on the sand beach, made dinner and slept as we was real exhausted. I the morning I was the first to emerge out of the tent as usually. I was stoked with the stunning beauty in front of my eyes; it was a breath taking scene. The golden ball emerged from horizon it bright color shines all the sky while the fresh water lake reflects it. As the low of nature birds were there communicate with each other to welcome the new day. The cup of coffee, cool breeze from lake, rhythm of lave waves birds’ calls and wind brought unforgettable sentient. My heart was thrill with joy while impulses wish to stop this fast moving transformation. The full light emerge Jesus! The moving object I saw previous on the lake and thought was mangrove were people came for early shower and the place we camp was the place for woman, man were about 500 miters further on the shore. It was the same time when human started to praise high power by calling; Allah Akhbar! Allah Akhibar! (Allah is great! Lord is great!) For the entire days we stayed there we I was worry that we threaten the private of those woman come to have shower in the morning and evening.
We had offer from fisherman to take us to the near island but we was obliged to pedal as well he just help with navigation. Lake waves were so strong made me felt like we water will get into the boat then I will die since I can’t swim in such deep water. After came back from boat ride we left the camp and cycled towards north-east of the island. We passed at Bukindo the castle like house, the home of great chief of Wa-Kerewe. Wa-kerewe, the predominant ethnic on this island who their language is evidence that they are from west off shore Bukoba, Haya people. These group of south Uganda and north west of Tanzania as you move further west to Rwanda and Congo share muchin common. One of the grinding machine we found at Bukindo said it was present from Buganda King to Wa-kerewe chief. The island is characterized by rolling hills and rocks outcrop with fertile land together with fishing attract high number of immigrant from mainland. In the north shore we left our bicycle on the certain house and visit the tomb of Wa-krewe chief on the rock. In our way back we were invited to dinner with family of young couple (27 years old) with five children goes like steers. This was amazing thing in this island where it is just ease to find young couples with 6 to 9 children. After corn mixed with cassava Ugali and big fish fresh from the lake we left cycled to west shore. We visited Andebezyo rock caves here there are two rocks named Aluego and Andebezyo. Aluego or Luego means two overhanging roacks used by local to dried cassava floor away from said extinct wild animals. Andebezyo was ladle used to climb on the top of the rocks.
Despite the fact that the island now is a home of several other immigrant ethnics such neighbor Wa-Sukuma from main land, Wa-Gita, Wa-Jaluo, Wa-Haya, et cetera the culture and customs which bound these people together still exist. Almost 90% of inhabitants are substance farmer which young engaged on the fishing industry. People had lot of relaxing/slack time as fishing is early morning rare night and late evening same to farm works which tend to be morning than evening.
We spent three nights in the island and left to Mwanza town in the mainland by boat which took 3hrs. In Mwanza town “Rock city” we had accommodation in Jacob’s uncle guest house. I left the group in Mwanza town after three days of bicycle repair.
I cycled for two days to reach Nkome, Rubondo National Park entrance. The park fees were affordable but I failed to enter in the park after because of high price of boat to the island. I camped at the base compound despite the fact that management refused me to camp there if I can’t pay 20US$ per night without any important services. The range on duty Joctan who become a friend, he told me is better for him to risk his job for let me camp there instead of let me go. He add that he don’t see any point on why shouldn’t camp there. I have a big dinner of rice and huge fish and breakfast of cooked banana and fish soup. It was amazing kindness.

I crossed the lake with local boat where I had lift. The boat took 5hrs to reach Mganza village via several small islands. In the next day I left Muganza and cycled to Muleba through Biharamulo game reserve. The cycling was deadly challenge. After 94km I reached Muleba town and went to the police station asked if I can camp in the compound the gentleman who was main speaker seemed that he was high rank office allow me to camp there. I was busy pitch my tent made coffee and dinner I explained and showed how I survived to the curious policeman and women as well. Around 09:30pm as I was having my dinner other two police man one in the uniform and other just dress casual come to me and bombed with couples of nonsense questions. They seem to be drunken. The one without uniform told me to remove my tent and find somewhere else to camp. He said he is the commanding office and add that the one who let me camp there he is not familiar with laws, regulations and rules. I did so cycled for 10minuts and camp at the filling station where I found a young man. I just told him I want to camp in the corner, he sad no problem. He insured me that my bicycle was in safe since there was guard.

I left the town in the next morning, cycled for 56km. I reached Bukoba town at 01:30pm. I camped at the Lake view hotel where I pay 2000 Tshs about $2. I decide to have one day of rest. I met a family of my friend from Arusha, visited Bukoba museum which is predominated by Dickson Personii photos of wild life found around Bukoba. Cycled in the town outstreckt which ischaracterized with rock give an amazing aerial view of old town on the shore of Lake Victoria.
I set off from Bukoba town after two days rest, I cycled towards west. After finished up hills near Bukoba town the large distance up to Kyaka town was relative flat. I overnight at Kyaka township, it’s lay about 50kms from Bukoba town. The town sprawling both side of Kagera River. Here there are remain ruins for resistance the church built on the top of the rock hill, Kagera Bridge, living houses, etc all of them have been bombed by Idd Amin. Amin sized the area of about 60kms from where there is border post between Tanzania and Uganda and claimed to be part of Uganda. This caused 1976-79 “kagera war” between Tanzania and Uganda. Tanzania successes to fought Amin and over through him from the presidency then he sorts exile in Arabs countries.
I left the town next day, cycling towards south-west through flat terrain forest. I stopped in the mid day after 60kms. As I was having lunch of bread sandwich came the track which stopped few miters from where I was sating. The track drive told me that forest wasn’t safe. He said it was possibly to come across with unfriendly people. He gave me lift up to Kizuguru town in Rwanda. We arrived in the town 07:10pm, the town situated near Kagera National Park.

...we have wings..

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